Find a good work area, preferably in a closed in shop. Also, make sure the work area is clean. Make sure the tractor is cleaned before pulling it into the work area. Acquire the proper tools for the job. The following are the tools required: wood wedges, 3 ton floor jack and jack stands, a cherry picker hoist, short chain with hooks, 1/2" drive impact socket set, 1/2" drive impact, 1/2" drive torque wrench, a set of wrenches and a 3/8" drive socket set with ratchet. With the tractor in the work space, put the wedges between the front axle and the frame. Place the jack on the rear end of the tractor and jack it up until the rear tires are a 1/2" off the ground. Place the jack stands under the tractor and be careful not to place them under the final drives. The best place to place the jack stands is under the transmission. Once jack stands are in place the tractor can be set down and the jack removed. Remove the wheels from both sides of the tractor. Remove the fenders, fuel tank, and ROPS. Be sure to set them out of the way and start draining the hydraulic oil from the tractor. Remove the linkage for the brakes from the final drives and start unbolting the final drives. Leave two

bolts loose in the final drive and wrap it with a chain and hook the cherry picker hoist to it. Wiggle the final drive loose and then remove the two bolts. Once the bolts are removed the final drive can be pulled away from the tractor and set down.[1] X Research source Turn the final drive up so the hub for the wheel is on the bottom and the brakes can be accessed. Remove the shaft that connects the final drive to the tractor and set it on a rag in a clean place. Access and pull out the brakes. There should be a metal disc, brake pad, metal disc, brake pad, then the brake piston. A bolt from one of the clips might need to be loosened to remove the metal discs and brakes.[2] X Research source Remove the shaft for the linkage from the final drive and remove the seal for it. Insert the new seal and the shaft can be reinstalled. Put the new brake pads and metal disc back inside the final drive. Make sure if the clamp was loosened to tighten it back. The shaft that connects the final drive and transmission can be installed in the final drive. Remove the hydraulic filter and install a new one. Also, remove the strainer and either clean or install a new one depending on the

condition. With the new filter on and the strainer cleaned, reinstall the final drives. Lift them with the cherry picker. Put a seal maker on the edge of the final drive housing before pushing it back to the tractor. The final drives may need to be wiggled and turned some for them to line up.[3] X Research source Start 2 bolts in the housing, one in the top and one in the bottom. Slowly turn the bolts to pull the final drives in to the transmission. Install the rest of the bolts. Use a torque wrench and the proper torquing procedure to tighten the bolts to 75ftlbs. Reinstall the fuel tank, ROPS, and fenders. Put the wheels back on the tractor. Replace the hydraulic oil.[4] X Research source Jack the tractor up off the jack stands and lower the tractor back on the ground. With the tractor safely on the ground, adjust each brake pedal separately. Each brake should have about 2 1/2" of travel and should both have equal amounts of travel.[5] X Research source Start and test drive the tractor. Test the brakes and make sure they are working properly. If they aren't they might have to be adjusted more or something was done wrong in the repair process.